Countless blogs, magazines and social media pages talk aboutIceland. It is impossible to unpick it from the wish list of so many travellers. If you haven't visited it yet, you are probably planning to do so. If you have already seen it, you definitely want to go back. In any case, we suggest you get there by the long, but much more scenic route.
Tórshavn as seen from the MS Norröna pier © Seeliger / ullstein bild / Getty Images
Most people who choose to take a trip to Iceland arrive there by plane, landing at Keflavík International Airport. But if you're looking for a different point of view, slower pace, breathtaking views or if you want to save on costs by travelling by car or camper van, consider Smyril Line's Norröna ferry, the only one that runs from Hirtshals in northern Denmark to Seyðisfjörður in Iceland via the spectacular Faroe Islands. An adventure full of unforgettable scenery is what awaits you if you choose to sail to Iceland from Denmark.
View from the pontoon of the Norröna ferry to Seyðisfjörður © Carolyn Bain / Lonely Planet
The slow but scenic alternative
The journey time is about 36 hours from Denmark to the Faroe Islands and 19 hours from the Faroe Islands to Iceland. The ferry departs from Tórshavn, the capital of the Faroe Islands, a small archipelago with only 50,000 inhabitants and an autonomous Danish territory. It always stops in Tórshavn and this intermediate stopover can last from six hours to three days, depending on the seasonal schedule. The service runs every week, so you can choose to stay in the archipelago for a whole week or two to devote a fuller visit.
Calm sea from the ferry Norröna © Carolyn Bain / Lonely Planet
Bear in mind that seasickness is a frequent unwanted effect of the crossing, especially in the open sea to the northwest of the Shetland Islands. The ferry is large and has excellent stabilisers, but we are still talking about the Atlantic Ocean, where storms are not to be underestimated. It is a good idea to pack some antidotes.
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Emerald cliffs and whale spouts
Binoculars and camera at the ready: pushing past the Shetland Islands (belonging to the UK) en route between Denmark and the Faroe Islands is a wonderful adventure, and in good weather, the platforms and oil tankers that inhabit the North Sea can be spotted in the distance.
Entering and leaving Tórshavn gives magical sensations. The ferry travels north-west towards Iceland, through a relatively narrow passage between the islands of Eysturoy and Kalsoy, and for two hours the view of the emerald-green cliffs will leave you ecstatic.
The scenic view of snow-capped peaks and waterfalls will welcome you to Iceland. The first to greet you is Seyðisfjörður, a picturesque town at the beginning of the fjord. During the trip, you can spot many species of birds and, if you are lucky, whales, especially in the warmer months.
View from the deck of the Norröna ferry as it sets sail from the Faroe Islands © Carolyn Bain / Lonely Planet
What you need to know about travelling by ferry
The Norröna is a fusion of a cargo ship, a passenger ferry and a cruise ship. It is not exactly a luxury ferry but the workmanship is more than excellent. There are cabins of different sizes (all have their own bathroom), or to save money you can buy a berth: a bed in the dormitories in the belly of the ship.
Guests cannot use a kitchen, but there is a wide choice of restaurants: the Simmer Dim Steakhouse is the upmarket alternative (reservations are recommended), then there are the cheaper buffet options and a budget restaurant. The cafés are a great place to hang out, especially the Sky Bar with a view, where Føroya Bjór, a beer brewed on the Faroe Islands, is served.
There is also a gift shop, duty-free shop and various sources of distraction on board, such as a small cinema, swimming pool, gym and children's play areas. Worthy of mention are the jacuzzis on the pontoon that can be hired by the hour.
The number of passengers on board varies according to the season, with Icelanders and Faroese people sailing to and from Europe on business or leisure trips and holidaymakers taking advantage of summer departures to treat themselves to a cruise. Many open-air-loving Europeans climb aboard in their motorhomes and caravans to set off for Iceland. In the warmer months, motorcyclists and cyclists are also spotted.
The port cities
Hirtshals, Denmark
Hirtshals is a town overrun by ferries: at the dock there are always passengers disembarking or boarding the ferry, heading to or from Norway, who come here to buy meat and alcohol at cheap prices (everything is relative, cheaper than in Norway).
Nearby attractions include the long stretch of beach at Tornby Strand and the Nordsøen Oceanarium, one of the largest aquariums in northern Europe, ideal for families. On the waterfront there are a few places to eat and a few supermarkets to stock up on supplies before heading back on board.
The Norröna departs from Hirsthals at 15:00 or 15:30 and many decide to spend a few days before departure exploring the surroundings. Some suggestions: Aarhus (Denmark's second largest city; 185 km south of Hirtshals), Billund (where Legoland is located; 240 km south) or beautiful Skagen (49 km north).
Boats in the Hirtshals marina © Carolyn Bain / Lonely Planet
Tórshavn, Faroe Islands
Tórshavn, named after the Norse god Thor, is one of the world's smallest capitals and is so colourful it looks like a toy town. In summer, it is possible to book accommodation and shore excursion packages to better explore the city and its surroundings. In addition, local taxi companies allow you to make the most of your stopover by organising private tours of the main attractions.
The charming old town of Tórshavn lies on the Tinganes peninsula, a short walk from the pier: it is a small tongue of land where you will find pretty grass-roofed cottages and rustic red-painted government buildings. Fans of Scandinavian crime dramas (and the typical warm jumpers produced locally) should not miss Guðrun & Guðrun, the shop in Tórshavn that designed the jumper worn by detective Sara Lund in the Danish TV series The Killing.
Foodies, on the other hand, should plan a diversion to eat at KOKS, an acclaimed restaurant serving 0-km cuisine south of Tórshavn in the pretty village of Kirkjubøur. In 2017, KOKS was the first restaurant in the Faroe Islands to receive a Michelin star.
Boats at Tórshavn marina © Carolyn Bain / Lonely Planet
Seyðisfjörður, Iceland
Take your time to get to know Seyðisfjörður, a village nestled in the mountains at the foot of the fjord of the same name. It is one of Iceland's most beautiful towns and pulses with creativity. Check out the old wooden houses (home to some wonderful design and craft shops), take a kayak or mountain bike tour and enjoy super fresh sushi at Norð Austur Sushi & Bar. Skaftfell is a popular spot offering beer, pizza and a convivial atmosphere.
To get into the Icelandic wilderness, the 25 km-long Route 93 up and over the mountain pass offers some of the most spectacular views. At Egilsstaðir, Route 93 then joins the Ring Road (a route that circumnavigates the entire country). Buses run year-round between Seyðisfjörður and Egilsstaðir, and from Egilsstaðir north-west to Akureyri and then on to Reykjavík (in summer, buses also run to Höfn).
The blue church of Seyðisfjörður and the city buildings are reflected in the water © Carolyn Bain / Lonely Planet
Practical information
The Norröna ferry service operates year-round, but schedules vary depending on the season. The high season covers an 11-week period from mid-June to the end of August, when prices and demand are at their highest (book well in advance); the low season runs from mid-September to April. There are two short mid-season periods, in May-June and early September. Fares are calculated according to season, cabin and vehicle (if any) and increase if you have meals on board or purchase a package with stopovers.
Denmark
Carolyn Bain visited Denmark, the Faroe Islands and Iceland with the support of Smyril Line (smyrilline.com). Lonely Planet contributors do not accept freebies in exchange for positive reviews.
This article was first published on 18 April 2017 and updated on 29 October 2021
