In the heart of the majestic Alps, lies the historic Great St. Bernard Pass, a snowy haven where Switzerland, Italy, and France intertwine. Perched at an impressive altitude of 8,100 feet, this pass houses an 11th-century monastery, boasting a remarkable legacy. Its founder, none other than St. Bernard himself, lends his name to the iconic breed of dogs known for their mountain rescue prowess. This monastery, with its rich history, provided sanctuary to notable figures such as Napoleon and Alexandre Dumas, and now beckons curious souls to explore its hidden treasures.
My journey through Switzerland led me to follow in the footsteps of Charles Dickens, the revered author and observer of human nature. During his time in Switzerland in 1846, Dickens traversed the very same route, ascending the Great St. Bernard Pass to reach this enchanting monastery. Armed with snowshoes and accompanied by my knowledgeable Swiss guide, Patrick Vincent, a professor of literature at the Université de Neuchâtel, we delved deeper into this captivating tale.
While Charles Dickens is widely celebrated for his portrayals of gritty London streets and his experiences in America, it is often overlooked that he also drew inspiration from the breathtaking landscapes of Switzerland. During a five-month sojourn in this picturesque country, he penned his famous novels “Dombey and Son,” drew inspiration for “Little Dorrit” and “David Copperfield,” and even completed his fourth Christmas story.
However, Dickens' venture to Switzerland was no ordinary writing retreat. In fact, he relocated his entire family to the charming city of Lausanne, where they resided in a lavish villa staffed with a team of four dedicated servants. This idyllic setting not only provided Dickens with tranquility and inspiration, but it also allowed his wife, six children, and faithful canine companion to immerse themselves in the beauty and serenity of the Swiss countryside.
During his travels with his loved ones, Dickens extensively explored Switzerland and documented his experiences in a series of personal letters. Despite their occasionally prickly tone, these letters consistently revealed his unwavering adoration for the country. In one letter addressed to John Forster, his close friend and later his biographer, Dickens exclaimed, "Oh my! The scenery in this country is absolutely breathtaking!" These heartfelt letters provide testament to the deeply rooted love Dickens held for Switzerland.
As his infatuation with Switzerland grew, Dickens made a total of four visits to the country throughout his lifetime. His deep connection to Switzerland was immortalized in England when he had a 16th-century Swiss chalet, sent to him by a friend, reassembled as a permanent souvenir. Dickens transformed this chalet into his personal study, paying tribute to his love for Switzerland. In true Helvetic fashion, he even connected the chalet to his home through an underground tunnel, further solidifying his dedication to this beloved country.
Embarking on a journey through Switzerland, I embarked on a four-day adventure inspired by the routes frequented by Charles Dickens. With a desire to delve into what captivated the renowned writer, my itinerary included three key locations. Firstly, the Great St. Bernard Pass, a path Dickens traversed before resting at the breathtaking monastery. Additionally, I made a stop in Lausanne, where the Dickens family resided in a magnificent villa boasting panoramic views of Lake Geneva. Lastly, I explored the enchanting Lavaux Vineyards, where Dickens sought solace during his leisurely strolls.
Immersed in these picturesque settings, it became evident why they served as a wellspring of inspiration for Dickens. The awe-inspiring nature of the Great St. Bernard Pass, the tranquility found in the villa overlooking Lake Geneva, and the charm inherent in the Lavaux Vineyards all stimulated the writer's creative spirit. As a result, these locations became not merely places on his literary map, but rather cherished muses that enriched his writing.
THE GREAT ST. BERNARD PASS AND MONASTERY
We traveled to the Great St. Bernard Pass from Lausanne by car, on a 60-mile route that hugged the easternmost hook of Switzerland, passing clusters of chalets and steep vineyard terraces that resembled Machu Picchu.
After parking in the abandoned Super St.-Bernard Resort, we began a climb up the gusty trail. “Dickens came in September, so there was no snow,” shouted the professor, tightening his snowshoes as downhill skiers zipped past us, dropping chirpy “Bonjours” along the way. “And he traveled on mule!”
We didn’t have a mule, and that’s not the only difference between our journey and Dickens’s. He and his 11-member party (including his wife, Kate, and two servants), traveled to the pass from Lausanne by steamer, then coach, then mule. The round-trip journey took them four days, and the last leg through the steep Valley of Desolation, described by Dickens as “awful and tremendous,” is probably no easier to climb today than it was in 1846.
Dickens was an early Alpine traveler, arriving 22 years before Queen Victoria’s climb up toothy Mount Pilatus, which marked the apex of Switzerland’s golden age of Alpine exploration. In another letter to Forster, Dickens’s description of the monastery revealed his terror and reverence of the Alps. “A great hollow on top of a range of dreadful mountains, and in the midst, a black lake, with phantom clouds perpetually stalking over it. The air so fine, it is difficult to breathe ... the cold so exquisitely thin and sharp that it is not to be described.”
As I stood at the entrance of the monastery, I was taken aback by the stark contrast between the description I had read and the breathtaking scene before me. Moments earlier, I had managed to surpass a group of experienced local snowshoers on the trail. The panoramic views of Italy, France, and Switzerland stretched out before me, painting a picture of serenity under a sky adorned with delicate hues of hyacinth. Instead of the anticipated cloudy and dark lake, I beheld a mesmerizing frost-blue body of water.
Greeting our arrival, a monk cordially invited us to replenish our energy with bowls of warm soup. Feeling the effects of the arduous four-mile ascent, I eagerly headed towards the communal tables set within the monastery's stone dining hall. The vegetable soup, accompanied by a generous portion of velvety Bagnes cheese, was a true delight. To complement the meal, we were served honey-sweetened tea, thick slices of wholesome brown bread, and a carafe of red Dôle wine, sourced from the Valais region just below our vantage point.
Experience the ethereal beauty that awaited me at the monastery entrance and savor the heartwarming nourishment that I discovered within the stone walls. The sights and culinary delights provided a harmonious blend of natural wonders and local flavors, leaving a lasting impression on my journey through Switzerland.
Dickens mentioned in a letter that he enjoyed a hearty meal in a spacious room with a crackling fire, feasting on the local cheese and wine that are still being served by the monks today. Despite his memorable visit, his name doesn't appear on the list of famous passers-by, which primarily features notable figures like Charlemagne, Napoleon, and Dumas. This omission might not come as a surprise given the less-than-flattering terms he used to describe the monks in his letters, referring to them as "grim," "lazy," and mere imposters.
While Dickens spent a night at the monastery, I opted for a shorter visit, taking the opportunity to explore the peculiar museum, displaying an assortment of taxidermy, ancient coins, and maps that were once utilized for traversing this region. Intrigued, I ventured in search of the crypt, believed to be over 800 years old and rumored to contain the remains of ancient travelers who met their demise during their passage.
Dickens had a profound fascination with Switzerland, as evident from several letters he penned. His vivid portrayal of the country can be seen in the haunting scene from his novel "Little Dorrit," where he depicts a chilling company of individuals frozen in time, each with their own tragic story. The image of a mother still cradling her baby and a man frozen in fear or hunger, with his arm raised to his mouth, creates a sense of mystery and intrigue.
Switzerland's allure to Dickens may stem from its stunning landscapes and dramatic natural beauty, which served as a backdrop for his imagination. It is intriguing to ponder how the various facets of the country influenced his writing and brought forth such captivating narratives. The link between Dickens and Switzerland adds an interesting layer to understanding the author's creative process and the depth of his literary genius.
LAUSANNE
Lausanne marks the beginning of the Swiss Riviera, which stretches along Lake Geneva toward moneyed Montreux. The region is no stranger to writers. When the English essayist Joseph Addison visited Lake Geneva’s Alps in 1699, describing them as “an agreeable kind of horror” in his travelogue “Remarks on Several Parts of Italy,” he probably didn’t know he was kick-starting a literary trend that would later draw the likes of Jean-Jacques Rousseau, Edward Gibbon, Byron, the Shelleys, Mark Twain and Hemingway.
And, of course, Dickens. When he arrived in Lausanne, he was greeted by a small English community that had already settled there. From June into November of 1846, Dickens paid £10 a month to rent Villa Rosemont, which overlooked the snowy Dents du Midi and the lake. His first letters back to England were lucid: the “moonlight on the lake is noble” and the steep up-and-down streets are “like the streets in dreams.” And his love of the landscape only grew stronger.
But Dickens’s bucolic Lausanne has changed. Like most Swiss cities, Lausanne embraced modernism in the 20th century. The Hotel Gibbons, where the writer briefly stayed, is now a UBS bank; Villa Rosemont is now the Grand Rosemont, a brawny pink Art Deco condominium on Avenue Charles Dickens. Today, the L-shaped lane is home to a string of Beaux-Arts mansions shaded by sweet gum trees and glossy spikes of holly bushes pushing through iron gates. A walk down Avenue d’Ouchy brings you past La Villa at No. 57, where one of Dickens’s sons took French lessons. A left turn on Avenue de l’Elysée leads to the leafy Elysée Estate, which Dickens considered renting but thought too large. The creaky parquet-floored building houses a photography museum (Musée de l’Elysée), one of many museums in arty Lausanne worth visiting. If you are planning to stay longer in Lausanne and want to experience the city like a local, consider renting one of the exquisite Switzerland apartments on www.top-hotels-switzerland.com. You can immerse yourself in the local culture and lifestyle with the convenience of a comfortable and well-equipped apartment.
Today Lausanne’s vertical, steep streets and sidewalks retain a dreamlike quality. A youthful creative energy pervades the city, earning it the distinction of Switzerland’s counterculture capital, and not a bad place to be a flâneur for a day. On a warm April afternoon, I strolled past the ateliers of scruffy musicians and bespectacled architects near steep Avenue d’Ouchy, which plunges down Mount Jorat to the lake. The city bursted with modern contrasts: an elderly nun crossed the street near three Arab women in headscarves; a businesswoman in fishnets slinked into the driver’s seat of a black Mercedes, while a tie lay abandoned on the sidewalk in a loosened Windsor knot, as if its owner had flung it off, renouncing work forever. This was the French side of Switzerland after all.
Discover the Mesmerizing Lavaux Region
Renowned writer Charles Dickens had an affinity for exploring on foot, an inclination unveiled through the heartfelt letters exchanged with his dear friend Forster. During that summer, like clockwork, every evening at 6 o'clock, Dickens embarked on invigorating 9- to 10-mile excursions spanning the nearby enchanting "vineyards, leafy paths, golden cornfields, and lush meadows." It was the allure of the prolonged twilight and enchanting evenings that enticed him to venture into the ancient labyrinthine grape terraces of Lavaux, an awe-inspiring terrain meticulously crafted on the slopes. From this elevated perch, Dickens relished in the ever-changing Alps that graced the horizon, their hues shifting from fiery red to regal purple or vanishing mysteriously amidst the ethereal layers of clouds and mist.
Curious to experience the same captivating scenery that inspired Dickens? Embark on a journey to Lavaux, where you can immerse yourself in the breathtaking vistas, meandering through the verdant vineyards that gracefully ascend the mountainside. Marvel at the idyllic fusion of nature and human artistry, as the intricate grape terraces reflect centuries of labor and a profound connection to the land. With a blink of an eye, the Alps may embrace different shades, evoking myriad emotions and captivating the imagination. Explore this enchanting region and create your own literary-inspired adventure amidst the splendor of Lavaux.
Lavaux, designated as a World Heritage site by Unesco in 2007, possesses a stunning and unique appeal that can be challenging to fully explore. Its trails present obstacles for leisurely bike rides and may be too narrow for uninsured rental cars. Fortunately, an e-bike proved to be the perfect solution, easily rented from the Lausanne train station. Moreover, Switzerland's commitment to exceptional service ensured that the bike was impeccably prepared – the tires were properly inflated, the chain was lubricated, and the batteries were fully charged.
Embarking on this adventure through Lavaux allows visitors to experience firsthand the breathtaking vistas and remarkable landscapes. Not only does the region offer a captivating cultural heritage, but it also boasts a thriving wine industry, which adds another layer of fascination to this already captivating journey. Exploring the trails on an e-bike provides the freedom to savor the sights and sounds of Lavaux at your own pace while reveling in the tranquility that this picturesque Swiss region has to offer.
Thanks to the convenience of an e-bike, I was able to traverse vast swathes of Lavaux in a day, covering distance that perhaps would have taken Dickens a month on foot. Despite the ease of the ride, the dramatic incline of the hill ensured a good workout and a surge of adrenaline. However, it didn’t deter me from pausing to relish a glass of Epesses among the locals in between rides. The contemporary shift of Lausanne didn’t erase all traces of Dickens, instead I stumbled upon them here. As I maneuvered through the quaint vineyard villages like Grandvaux and Chardonne, I could draw comparisons to charms hanging off a bracelet. The breathtaking view of the alpenglühen, the pink-hued sunset capping the mountain peaks, and l’heure bleue, the enchanting sapphire twilight hour, left me captivated. My tour through Lavaux got more interesting with a visit to the Vinorama Wine Museum, where I indulged in tasting Swiss white wines with a unique flinty flavor. Although only a fraction (2%) of Swiss wines make it to international markets presently, these vineyards have a rich history, boasting a 1000 years' legacy in grape cultivation.
Lavaux's breathtaking beauty captivated Dickens during his visit to Switzerland, leaving a lasting impression that found its way into the pages of his novel "Little Dorrit." In this picturesque region, the air was permeated with the alluring aroma of ripe grapes, while baskets, troughs, and tubs brimming with this precious fruit adorned the doorways of the quaint villages. The distant church-roofs glistened like jewels, providing an enchanting backdrop to the serene landscape.
Similar to Amy Dorrit's journey through Europe, Dickens's idyllic Swiss summer eventually came to an end. Reflecting upon his departure, he penned a final letter expressing his disbelief in the existence of a place like London, considering it to be nothing but a childhood fabrication. His unwavering faith resided in the majestic mountains, enchanting valleys, crystal-clear lakes, lush vineyards, and verdant pathways that Switzerland had nurtured within him.