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Not By Bread Alone
Finding Gluten-Free Sustenance for Our Jewish Souls
By Alyson Gold Weinberg
Curls of steam spiral up from Mom’s pot of matzo-ball soup; the sweet-tangy smell of Bubbe’sbrisket fills the house; Grandpa, serious as a Talmud scholar, flips latke after latke on his well-oiled skillet. Like Marcel Proust and his beloved madeleine, our most vivid and happy Jewish holidaysense-memories revolve around food.
But what if the foods we treasure year after year are off-limits to you or someone you love? What if the secret ingredient in Bubbe’s brisket makes you ill? Or Mom’s matzo balls are tantamount topoison and Grandpa’s latkes equal days of gastrointestinal distress?
When we got the call from Children's Hospital to say our daughter, Josie, had celiac disease, our first reaction was elation. She was acutely ill and, at nearly 2 years old, had lost her ability to walk, was in terrible pain and had a distended, bloated belly. She had been tested for some God-awful diseases before being diagnosed with this one, an autoimmune disorder characterized by intolerance to gluten, the protein in wheat, oats, barley and rye. We finally had our answer, and it wasn't that bad.
"So, that's good, right?" I asked. "It's treatable. She'll be okay."
"Yes. She'll be okay, as long as she's on a strict gluten-free diet for the rest of her life. But it's not all good news, Mrs. Weinberg," said our Jewish doctor.
"What? Just tell me."
"She'll never eat a bagel."
Such is the power of food in the Jewish culture. Any Jew, even a renowned gastroenterologist, knows instinctively that food is an essential part of how we mark life-cycle events, how we celebrate holidays, how we comfort the grieving. It is—in no small way—how we show love. So what's a well-meaning Yiddishe mama to do? Our initial elation gave way to panic, not only because there was a very steep learning curve for us, but also because we couldn't imagine her being Jewish without Jewish food.
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Chanukah Cookies
From Bette Hagman’s The Gluten-Free Gourmet(Owl Books, Henry Holt & Co.)
1 cup rice flour
3/4 cup tapioca flour
3/4 cup cornstarch
2 1/2 teaspoons xanthan gum
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup sugar
1 cup vegetable shortening
1 egg
2 teaspoons vanilla
1/4 cup (or more) potato starch flour for kneading
Colored sprinkles, sugars or frosting
Preheat oven to 350°F. In a small bowl, whisk together flours, cornstarch, xanthan gum and salt. Set aside. In a mixing bowl, cream sugar and shortening. Beat in the egg and vanilla. Add the dry ingredients, mixing enough to combine. The dough should form a soft ball. With your hands, knead in enough of the potato starch flour to make the dough easy to handle and roll out.
Chill dough in the refrigerator, covered with plastic wrap, for 30 minutes. Working with half of the dough at a time, place a piece of plastic wrap over the ball and roll out to about 1/8 inch thickness. Cut into desired shapes, decorate with sprinkles, if desired, and place on an ungreased cookie sheet. Bake for about 13 minutes. Cool completely before decorating with icing. Makes 3 dozen 2 1/2 inch cookies.
From the book Gluten Free Gourmet: Revised Edition by Bette Hagman. Reprinted by arrangement with Henry Holt and Company, LLC. Copyright © 1990, 2000 by Bette Hagman. All rights reserved.
These are great for preschool Chanukah parties and cold afternoons baking with kids. We use Star of David cookie cutters and decorate with gluten-free sprinkles or colored icing such as those made by Betty Crocker.
THIS RECIPE IS DAIRY-, SOY- AND NUT-FREE.
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My husband, Josh, and I sat up at night and—always prefaced by some version of "Thank God it's not worse"—bemoaned the fact that our daughter, the granddaughter of a rabbi, would never eat a bagel or a noodle kugel or a blintz. For that matter, what about pizza and beer: How would she attend college—or law school? Coincidentally—or, to my spiritual nature, not at all coincidentally—Josie was diagnosed several days before Passover. By halachaic definition, the holiday excludes forbidden grains and anything derived from them, making it blessedly gluten-free, apart from matzo, matzo meal and any combinations thereof. For Josh and me, getting rid of the chametz in our house served as a literal and spiritual cleansing. Lo, the winter had passed, and spring was here. Out with the food that made our daughter sick, and the two of us sick with worry, and in with…well, what?
We snapped into action, bought cookbooks, sought out gluten-free Web sites, joined support groups and called anyone and everyone we knew who knew someone with the disease. In short order, Josie healed. She gained weight, grew several inches and regained her sunny disposition and physical energy. This was a miracle: She was glowing with health. Now we just had to keep her that way.
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Latkes to Flip Over
3–4 medium baking potatoes
1 onion
2 eggs
1/4 cup gluten-free flour mix (such as Bob’s Red Mill gluten-free baking mix, www.bobsredmill.com)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
Sea salt (optional)
Peel and grate the potatoes. Finely chop onion. Place in large mixing bowl with flour and seasonings. Beat the eggs and add them to bowl. Mix well. Heat 1/4 inch of vegetable oil until very hot. Drop batter by rounded tablespoons into oil and fry until golden brown, about 3 to 4 minutes per side. Drain on paper towels. Season with additional sea salt, if desired. Serves 8.
We double or triple this recipe and serve it to gluten-free and gluten eaters alike with sour cream and applesauce. There are never any left over!
THIS RECIPE IS DAIRY-, SOY- AND NUT-FREE.
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Celiac disease is a genetic disease that affects approximately one in every 130 people, most of them, like Ashkenazi Jews, of European descent. In fact, according to Mary J. Shomon, author of Living Well with Autoimmune Disease, Ashkenazi Jews are more prone to diseases affecting the bowel, such as Crohn's, colitis and celiac disease. And if one family member is a celiac, her first-degree relatives have an increased chance of also having the disease. So our next step was to have the rest of the family tested. While my husband, Josh, was in the clear, our younger daughter, Raina, and I tested positive and also must follow a gluten-free diet. So that's three of us in one family requiring special foods every time we dine.
Our doctor was relieved to learn we had the bagel situation quickly in hand—we found a perfectly acceptable gluten-free version in the freezer section at our local Whole Foods, made by Glutino (www.glutino.com). Toasted and smeared with cream cheese, or topped with lox and tomato, you can hardly tell the difference.
Gluten-Free Chanukah Goodies
The Festival of Lights is here. See their faces light up when you make delicious gluten-free treats for the celiac or wheat-allergic people in your life! The alternative flours can be found in the gluten-free section of many supermarkets, as well as health food stores and online at sites such as www.glutenfreemall.com.
Challah also was soon solved. My parents, apparently, had been up at night too, but the focus of their rumination was that comforting weekly hunk of braided bread. They called with an offer: They would learn to bake gluten-free challah so that our girls would never go a Friday night without it. And so they found a recipe, bought a fancy mixer with dough hooks and went into business. The result is warm, squishy, delicious challah, delivered by my parents weekly. And never a Friday night without it.
But the Jewish holidays took a little more work—and more than a little patience, creativity and diplomacy to get it right. Apart from Passover, which we have dubbed The Most Wonderful Time of the Year, the holidays all seemed to feature foods that contain gluten. Think kugel (noodles), matzo-ball soup (matzo meal), latkes (flour to bind), hamantaschen (flour). We had to learn a whole new vocabulary of alternative flours, products and techniques. It took the better part of the first year of living with celiac disease to educate ourselves and our families.
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Josie and Raina’s Sufganiyot
1 cup water
1 stick butter
1 cup Bob’s Red Mill Gluten-Free Pancake Mix
4 eggs
Vegetable oil
Strawberry jam
Gluten-free chocolate frosting, such as Pillsbury Creamy Supreme
In a 2-quart saucepan, heat water and butter until the mixture boils. Remove pan from heat and stir in pancake mix, stirring until the mixture forms a ball and pulls away from the sides of the pan. With an electric mixer, beat in eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition.
Heat 2–3 inches of oil in a large skillet until very hot. Drop the batter into the heated oil by small rounded teaspoonfuls, a few at a time. Fry until golden brown, turning them to brown evenly. Drain on paper towels. Pierce a small hole in each doughnut, and, with a pastry bag fitted with a small tip, fill with jam or frosting. Dust with confectioner’s sugar.
In Israel, children wait all year for their traditional Chanukah doughnuts. These small, round sufganiyot, filled with jam or frosting and topped with confectioners’ sugar, are a cross between a beignet and a donut hole.
THIS RECIPE IS SOY- AND NUT-FREE.
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Some Jewish foods, like matzo balls, became simply off-limits, while others, like latkes and kugel, were in need of a simple gluten-free makeover. Others were a little sneakier. Take the ultimate Jewish soul food, brisket, for example. You wouldn't necessarily know it, but so often those beloved everything-but-the-kitchen-sink brisket recipes contain ingredients, like onion soup mix, with hidden glutens. We pored over recipes trying to address everything, including salad dressings, ketchup brands and spice mixes. Oh, and then there's the issue of dessert—rugelach, apple cake, mandelbrot. Oy.
Add to the cooking challenges the sometimes thorny politics of being part of an extended family. Turning down some of that generations-old recipe? Not easy, especially when it's just a little taste, just this once, and it's the holidays for goodness sakes. It can be difficult to explain the degree to which gluten sickens people with celiac disease, but we cannot eat even a molecule. The smallest amount damages the intestinal lining, causing the sufferer to stop absorbing nutrients and leading to a host of health problems, ranging from diarrhea, vomiting, fatigue, depression and joint pain to an increased risk of certain intestinal cancers.
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Grandma and Grandpa’s GF Challah
From Bette Hagman’s The Gluten-Free Gourmet (Owl Books, Henry Holt & Co.)
2 cups rice flour
1 3/4 cups tapioca flour
1/4 cup sugar
3 teaspoons xanthan gum
2 teaspoons unflavored gelatin
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon dry yeast granules
1/2 cup lukewarm water
2 teaspoons sugar
1/4 vegetable shortening
1 1/4 cups hot water
1 teaspoon vinegar or dough enhancer
3 eggs, room temperature
2 egg yolks
Grease two 8 1/2- by 4 1/2-inch loaf pans and dust with rice flour. Combine flours, sugar, xanthan gum, gelatin and salt in bowl of mixer. Blend. In a separate bowl, dissolve yeast in warm water to which the 2 teaspoons of sugar have been added. Soften the shortening in the hot water.
Pour shortening mixture into dry ingredients, add vinegar and blend on low. Add eggs and egg yolks, beating slightly. The mixture should be slightly warm. Add yeast mixture and beat 3 1/2 minutes on high.
Spoon dough into prepared pans. Let dough rise in a warm place until doubled (approximately 35 to 45 minutes for rapid-rising yeast, 60 to 70 minutes for regular).
Bake in a preheated 400°F oven for 50 to 60 minutes, covering after the first 10 minutes with aluminum foil.
From the book Gluten Free Gourmet: Revised Edition by Bette Hagman. Reprinted by arrangement with Henry Holt and Company, LLC. Copyright © 1990, 2000 by Bette Hagman. All rights reserved.
This is best served straight from the oven, slathered with butter or margarine, but it also freezes beautifully. We use this as our all-purpose sandwich bread, as well. This is not a braided challah. Wish it was, but without gluten, it’s almost impossible to get the elasticity needed for braiding!
THIS RECIPE IS DAIRY-, SOY- AND NUT-FREE.
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Of course, when we host holidays in our home, food is a non-issue. But with two proud Jewish grandmas and a grandpa, several aunts and a large network of family friends nearby, we are sometimes guests rather than hosts. Without being too pushy or inconveniencing everyone too much, we needed to make sure we could enjoy the holidays elsewhere while staying healthy. Luckily, our family, friends and community were eager to help once they got over their anxiety. The aunts and the grandmas were worried at first. What if they made us sick? Would it be too much work? Could they still make the family's favorites? How were they going to show their love?
My parents, having mastered challah, moved on to gluten-free gravy and stuffing for Thanksgiving, as well as a truly decadent flourless chocolate torte, suitable for Passover or anytime. Aunt Jennifer perfected her chocolate-chip meringues and adapted her delicious brownie trifle to make it gluten-free by using Pamela's Irresistible Chocolate Brownie Mix (available at glutenfreemall.com, Whole Foods and health food stores). Aunt Rachel adopted our gluten-free brisket recipe as her family favorite. Nana Marcia started making her strawberry Jell-O mold with gluten-free ingredients. The teachers at our daughters' synagogue preschool bought gluten-free play dough for their classrooms and offered to make Chanukah cookies with gluten-free dough. And friends Beth and Jeff ensured that not a Shabbat dinner passed at their house where our children couldn't eat the challah, and not a birthday party passed for their children where ours couldn't eat the cake.
We learned early on that we could ease the burden and alleviate performance anxiety for friends, family and community by offering to bring a gluten-free dish or dessert for our host and by volunteering in our children's classrooms for cooking activities. We also learned some bigger lessons from our experience with celiac disease. Being a little "different" has taught us and our children more compassion toward others. Friends and family have taught us that if we are willing to ask for it, they will surprise us by their willingness to help. And Josie and Raina continue to teach us how to bear exclusion—at birthday parties, school events and, yes, sometimes the holiday table—with humor and grace.
But perhaps the most important thing we learned along our journey with celiac disease is that while food is an integral part of the way we Jews celebrate, comfort each other, create memories and show love, it is by no means the most important part. Take that food off the table, and what do you have? The people sitting around you, your family, friends and community. And that is what really nourishes us all.
Alyson Gold Weinberg, a writer and communications consultant, makes her gluten-free home in Potomac, Md.
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