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   Food & Recipes

 FALL ISSUE 2005  SUBSCRIBE


















The Road to Morocco

Spice up your family's meals in the New Year by introducing them to tagines, the savory stews of Moroccan Jews. Tagines are traditionally cooked and served in vessels known by the same name. Le Creuset's classic tagine ($120 plus S&H), available from Williams-Sonoma (www.williams-sonoma.com), features an enameled cast-iron base to promote efficient searing and browning. The stoneware lid fits snugly inside the base to circulate heat and moisture during the long cooking period. The simmering stew is continuously basted so the finished dish is invariably tender and flavorful.


Tagine of Chicken With Eggplant (Baraniya)

This recipe appears in The Scent of Orange Blossoms: Sephardic Cuisine from Morocco by Kitty Morse and Danielle Mamane, published by Ten Speed Press in 1991. Among the many fascinating recipes they include is this one for a tagine which they say Moroccan Jews traditionally made for Yom Kippur.

2 globe eggplants, peeled and cut into 1/4 inch slices
1/2 cup vegetable oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
10 to 12 chicken pieces
3 large onions, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons sugar or honey
1 tablespoon "Top of the Shop" Spice Blend
1/4 cup chicken stock
8 threads Spanish saffron, toasted and crushed (see note below)
2 teaspoons salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Place the eggplant slices on a layer of paper towels. Sprinkle lightly with salt. Let sweat for 10 minutes and pat dry with paper towels. Turn the slices over, and repeat on the other side. Rinse them quickly under running water and pat dry.

Preheat the broiler and line a baking sheet with aluminum foil. In a small bowl, combine 1/4 cup of the oil and the garlic. Lightly brush each eggplant slice on both sides with the mixture. Place the slices on the prepared baking sheet and broil until brown, 4 to 5 minutes on each side. Reserve a few slices for garnish. Layer the remaining eggplant slices in the bottom of a Dutch oven. Set aside.

Preheat the oven to 350 F.

In a skillet, heat the remaining 1/4 cup oil over medium-high heat. Add the chicken and cook, turning occasionally, until golden on all sides, 8 to 10 minutes. Set the chicken pieces on top of the eggplant.

To the oil remaining in the skillet, add the onions, sugar and spice blend. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are very soft, 10 to 12 minutes. Spoon the onions over the chicken.

In a small bowl, combine the stock, saffron, salt, and pepper. Pour over the onions and cover the dish. Transfer to the oven and bake until the chicken is tender, 40-45 minutes. Uncover and bake until the sauce reduces by one-quarter, 15 to 20 minutes. Garnish with the reserved eggplant slices, and serve.

Note: Lightly toasting the saffron threads helps release their intense aroma. Place the requisite number in a small skillet over medium-high heat, shaking gently until the threads darken slightly, 1 to 2 minutes. Do not overcook or they will turn bitter. Grind stigma with a pinch of salt in a mortar and pestle.

© 2001 Kitty Morse and Danielle Mamane

"Top of the Shop" Spice Blend (Ras El Hanout)

The following combination incorporates the spices most commonly used in Sephardic cuisine.

2 teaspons freshly ground allspice, or 2 teaspoons allspice berries
1 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg, or 1 whole nutmeg
2 teaspoons ground mace, or 2-1/2 teaspoons blade mace
1 teaspoon ground ginger, or 1 (2-inch) piece dried gingerroot
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon, or 1 (1/2-inch) cinnamon stick

Combine all the ground ingredients. Or, if you are using whole spices, place them in a small nonstick skillet over medium heat. Toast, stirring, until they release their aroma, 3 to 5 minutes. Allow to cool. Grind in a mortar and pestle or a spice grinder until powdered. Sift to remove any fibrous elements. Store at room temperature in a tightly sealed container.

© 2001 Kitty Morse and Danielle Mamane